Pat Sloan's Fusible Applique Tutorial
I love fusible applique. It lets me create wonderful projects fast!
I am all about keeping my quilt soft. In order to do that I must cut away some of the fusible.. which is a bonus as that part can now be used for other shapes and it makes your project go quicker!
This is part of my "Lucky Charms" a free quilt on my website.
I also teach this in my applique workshop where you get ALL the insider tips! CLICK HERE to hire me
I'm going to teach you how to draw on the fusible and giving you some of my tips and tricks.
I use Het N Bond Lite (purple package) for this type of applique as we are going to be cutting away the centers and this fusible always stays together... read on...
Trace the shapes on the paper side. The circles can be traced one inside the other.
Leave yourself some room between shapes. You have to have area on the OUTSIDE of the shape so you have something to hold onto
Use all the available spots on your heat n bond
After you trace we have to prepare the shape to put it on the APPLIQUE fabric. Here we have 3 circles stacked... let's release one to use!
Cut through the line you drew (Did I hear you GASP?) It's ok. This is the BEST WAY to cut out the inside as you won't be working the fusible too much. Then you fold and bend it you increase your risk of the paper and glue separating.. although Heat n Bond lite really is excellent.
Have you tried fusibles that separate when you cut? Doesn't it make you insane? This one won't do that
Leave a VERY TINY bit of fusible INSIDE the shape. THIS is JUST ENOUGH to be covered by the stitches. And it's enough to baste the shape until you stitch.
You ALWAYS fuse on the BACK of your applique shape.
Once you do a few you'll get brave and leave 2 connected... makes it a tad faster!
IRONING TIP - For Heat n Bond lite you can use a hot Iron. Why don't you do one test shape through this sequence so you see how it works
- Iron is hot, I keep it on cotton
- Usually no steam, but steam will not hurt it.
- Hold the Iron ON the shape only a few seconds
- Peel back the edge.. is the fusible sticking to the paper? Iron not hot enough
- Is the fusible clear like tape? GOOD!
- Is the fusible yellow? Iron too hot or you were holding it too long... you cooked the fusible
I'm always asked if we can stack them to cut out the centers.. of course you can! If you draw fairly consistently then it should work fine.
Here we gooooooooo... lots of good shapes! The red one is onto the 2nd step.. let me show you
First let me show you this... see how there is a tiny gap?
- No worries... your STITCHING holds the shape down!
See how the lines don't meet
- No worries... when you cut the shape make it how you need it to be!
Now you cut ON the line. This type of applique is raw edge. So your stitching needs to cover the edge (that will be part 4!)
take the paper off and your fusible will be 'clear like tape'.
Another way to release the paper is to crease it.
When you let go the paper releases... it's Magic!
For a background that is larger than my ironing board I will often work on one of these small ironing mats on my cutting table.
Find the center of your background by matching the edges like this, crease the center in both directions.
Place your circles first
Then the stems... notice I'm working 'on point'. Follow the diagram in the pattern you printed
Place the berries
And the holly.
I also added berries to all 4 corners...
The stems for this center are done with a Bias maker. CLICK HERE for the Bias maker Tutorial!
=====PART 2 ============================
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I'm using my Aurifil 50 weight thread from my kit. The thin thread blends in so the thread is not a 'feature' on the project. (CLICK HERE TO SEE THE COLORS)
For the Holly and berries I'm using these 3 thread colors.
Let's do a test piece so you can get your stitches right. Draw a rectangle on the fusible, donut out the inside, fuse and put on a lighter color background fabric that you can write notes on.
Pick a contrasting thread color you can see. Put on your open toe Applique foot. If you do not have an open toe one, the other will work, but you will want to buy an open toe foot.. mmm.. like TODAY.. it's that necessary.
Try your default setting first for the Blanket Stitch. Sometimes it works fine. This is mine
It's too narrow for everyday use. But I do use it for very small pieces. Write the zigzag and straight stitch numbers next to the stitch.
Now increase your stitch length and try that... increase it again..writing the numbers as you go.
How should the stitch look? This is my 'go to' stitch size. Straight stitch is just a bit less than 1/4"
AND zig zag is also set to be JUST A BIT less than 1/4"
- You want the straight stitch to be ON the background and NEXT TO the applique fabric.
- You want to be sure you do not have a gap between the applique and straight stitch.
- You also don't want the straight stitch ON the applique shape
How to do corners, which is the same way you do points, or inside 'v's. It's just how much you turn for each angle. On your test piece, draw the angle. you are going to loosely follow at the corner. This gives you a guide for the direction to turn your fabric.
Do NOT draw on your real project.
Stitch to the corner
then turn so that the line you drew is positioned like the photo. Stitch this one.
THEN TURN again before you do the next stitch.
TIP - if you have a needle up/ needle down button, try using it to do these corners so you don't over shoot and stitch past the end.
If you do not have a blanket stitch on your machine you can use a zig-zag stitch. For a zig-zag keep the WHOLE stitch ON the applique. I do not do a tight stitch, but a more open one.. and not too big. I use the last on on this sample.
Or you can straight stitch on the edge.
TIP - If you feel the stitching is creating a 'tunnel' or 'pulling' ... then starch your top so it will stabilize the background fabric. I spray iron 3 times to stiffen the background. Do another test.
I use the same thread in the bobbin as I do on the top.
Since all my shapes are fused, I can stitch ALL one color then switch to the next color.
This is how to handle the green stems under the berries. Another option would be to stitch the stem THEN fuse the berries. BUT... you will SEE the stitches under the berries.
This is part of my "Lucky Charms" a free quilt on my website.
Aurifil Thread at my online shop
I also teach this in my applique workshop where you get ALL the insider tips! CLICK HERE to hire me
CLICK HERE for the Bias maker Tutorial!
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